How to archive RAW files so you never lose a shoot
RAW files are your digital negatives. A simple folder structure and a real backup plan protect them for decades, without needing expensive software.
Most people who lose photos do not lose them to a dramatic disaster. They lose them to an ordinary failure: a laptop drive that dies, a phone that gets stolen, a memory card that was formatted before anyone copied it, or a single external drive that quietly stopped spinning in a drawer. RAW shooters have more at stake, because RAW files are the most complete record of each picture you will ever have.
Archiving well is not complicated. It comes down to three habits: copy files off cards promptly into a predictable folder structure, keep the originals untouched, and keep more than one copy in more than one place.
Why keep RAW originals at all?
Once you have exported JPGs, it is tempting to delete the bulky RAW files. Resist that for any photo you care about. A JPG is a finished, compressed rendering; the RAW holds the full sensor data, as explained in RAW vs JPEG. RAW processing software keeps improving, especially for noise reduction and highlight handling, and an image developed again years later can look noticeably better. Your taste also changes. The RAW lets you re-edit without the losses that come from editing a JPG again.
That does not mean keeping every frame. Rejected duplicates and out-of-focus shots can go, ideally after a cooling-off period. Our batch workflow guide covers culling.
The 3-2-1 backup rule
The 3-2-1 rule is the most widely recommended baseline for protecting important data:
- 3 copies of your files: the working copy plus two backups.
- 2 different types of storage, for example an internal drive and an external drive, or a drive and a NAS.
- 1 copy off-site, such as cloud backup or a drive kept at another location.
The point is to make sure no single event takes out every copy. A power surge can kill everything plugged into the same outlet. Fire, flood or theft can take everything in one building. Ransomware or an accidental mass deletion can spread to any drive that is connected and syncing at the time.
A folder structure that still works in ten years
The best folder structure is boring and predictable. Organizing by date is the most robust approach, because every photo has a date and dates sort correctly in every operating system and program. A common pattern:
| Level | Example |
|---|---|
| Root | Photos |
| Year | Photos/2026 |
| Shoot (date + short description) | Photos/2026/2026-06-14_beach-day |
| Inside the shoot | RAW files, plus an "export" subfolder for JPGs |
A few rules make this hold up over time:
- Use YYYY-MM-DD at the start of folder names. 2026-06-14 sorts correctly; 14-6-26 does not.
- Avoid special characters and very long names. Stick to letters, numbers, hyphens and underscores so names survive moving between Windows, macOS, Linux, NAS devices and cloud services.
- Keep exports separate from originals. An "export" or "jpg" subfolder inside each shoot keeps the link to the source without mixing finished files with masters.
- Do not rely only on folder names to find things. If you use a catalog editor, keywords and ratings add a second way to search.
Whether you rename the files themselves is personal preference. Keeping the camera's original names (like DSC01234) is simple and keeps a link to the card. Renaming to something like 2026-06-14_0001 can avoid duplicate names when two cameras or a counter rollover produce the same filename. If you rename, do it once at import and never again.
Importing: the step where most losses happen
- Copy, do not move, files from the card to your photo folder.
- Back up the new folder before formatting the card. If you can, wait until the files exist in two places.
- Spot-check a few files by opening them, especially the last ones on the card.
- Format the card in the camera, not on the computer, when you are ready to reuse it.
Treat the memory card as a temporary third copy until the backup has run.
Sidecar XMP files
RAW editors do not change the RAW file itself. They store your edits separately. Catalog-based programs keep edits in their database, and many can also write them to a small sidecar file with the same name as the RAW and an .xmp extension (for example DSC01234.ARW alongside DSC01234.xmp). Sidecars are also used to store ratings, keywords and other metadata in a standard format.
- Keep sidecars next to their RAW files and back them up together. A RAW without its XMP loses the edit; an XMP without its RAW is useless.
- Do not rename RAW files outside your editor once sidecars exist, or the pair will be separated.
- Back up the catalog too if you use Lightroom Classic or a similar program; it contains edits and organization that may not all be in sidecars.
Simple converters, including browser tools like RAWSnap, generally do not write sidecars at all. If you use one, keep your exported JPGs and your own saved preset names as the record of how you developed a shoot.
Should you convert RAW files to DNG?
DNG is Adobe's openly documented RAW format, and the free Adobe DNG Converter can turn most proprietary RAW files into DNG. It is a reasonable choice for some people and an unnecessary step for others.
| Pros of converting to DNG | Cons of converting to DNG |
|---|---|
| Openly documented format, which some people prefer for long-term access | Extra processing step and time at import |
| Metadata and edits can be stored inside the file instead of in sidecars | Manufacturer software usually cannot read converted DNGs, so you lose access to the camera's own rendering and some maker-specific data |
| Optional lossless compression can save some space | Writing edits into the file means the file changes, which can trigger repeated backups |
| One format across many cameras | Proprietary RAW formats from major brands are already widely supported by open-source decoders |
A cautious middle ground: if you convert, keep the original proprietary RAW files too, at least for important shoots. Never convert originals in place without a backup. For more on how formats differ, see RAW formats compared.
How much storage do you need?
File sizes vary with resolution, bit depth and compression, so only ranges make sense:
| Camera type | Typical RAW file size | Approx. files per 1 TB |
|---|---|---|
| 20 to 26 megapixels, compressed | about 20 to 30 MB | roughly 33,000 to 50,000 |
| 20 to 26 megapixels, uncompressed | about 40 to 55 MB | roughly 18,000 to 25,000 |
| 40 to 61 megapixels, compressed | about 40 to 80 MB | roughly 12,000 to 25,000 |
| 40 to 61 megapixels, uncompressed | about 80 to 125 MB | roughly 8,000 to 12,500 |
| Phone RAW (12 to 50 megapixels) | about 20 to 100 MB | roughly 10,000 to 50,000 |
To estimate your own needs, check the average file size in a recent shoot folder, multiply by the number of frames you keep per year, then multiply by three for the 3-2-1 copies. Leave headroom: drives slow down and become harder to manage when nearly full, and most people shoot more each year, not less.
Keep your archive healthy
- Test restores. A backup you have never restored from is a guess. Once or twice a year, pull a random folder from each backup and open some files.
- Replace aging drives. Hard drives and SSDs wear out. Many people plan to migrate data to new drives every several years rather than waiting for failure.
- Do not trust a single drive in a drawer. Unpowered drives are not a permanent archive; check them periodically.
- Write down your system. A short note listing where each copy lives helps you, and helps family members if they ever need to find your photos.
FAQ
Should I delete RAW files after exporting JPGs?
Not for photos you care about. The RAW contains far more data than the JPG and can be developed again with better software or a different look. Delete rejected frames instead.
What is the 3-2-1 backup rule?
Keep three copies of your photos, on at least two different kinds of storage, with one copy stored off-site, for example in cloud backup or at another location.
What are XMP sidecar files?
Small files saved next to a RAW that store edit settings and metadata such as ratings and keywords. Keep them with their RAW files and back them up together.
Is converting RAW to DNG a good idea?
It can be, for a single open format and embedded metadata, but you lose compatibility with the camera maker's software. If you convert, keeping the original RAW files as well is the safest approach.
How much storage do RAW photos need?
Roughly 20 to 125 MB per file depending on the camera and compression. Multiply your yearly keepers by the average size, then by three for a full 3-2-1 backup.
Open the converter